The Queen's Funeral & Why Royal Warrants Matter for UK Craft, Fashion & Textile Businesses, by Tamara Cincik.

On Monday the world watched the UK do what is does best: a flawless display of pomp, tradition and ceremony for HM the Queen's state funeral. Over 250,000 queued for hours to visit her laying in state at Westminster Hall for the days leading up to the funeral. This was the first state funeral since that of Winston Churchill in 1965, with many of the traditions dating from the funeral of Queen Victoria, who until June this year when Queen Elizabeth ii held her Platinum Jubilee, had been the longest reigning monarch in the UK.

There has been much about this past two weeks which have shown the close ties of monarchy, state, government and faith in the UK, and as a keen historian, I can see the links to Tudor, Victorian and post war myth and ceremony-making, much of which has been pored over since the Queen died just under 2 weeks ago, but which are important in instilling a sense of security, longevity and assurance. Sometimes even when in reality, as for instance with the Tudors, there were many other claimants to the throne of England and Wales, whose claims were dynastically stronger and so a sense of history and strength was crucial, as seen played out by Henry viii's quest for a son and dynastic stability throughout his 6 marriages, while his daughter Elizabeth i created the iconography of Gloriana, the Virgin Queen, which arguably was appropriated for our Queen, with her distinctive sartorial style, dressed brightly to be seen, as she understood that seeing is believing.

Back in 2017, the value the UK Monarchy added the economy was valued at £67.5bn. with Royal Warrants then valued as adding £193.3m to the UK economy as most of these brands are domiciled in the UK. 70% of Chinese consumers cited as preferring a British brand with a Royal Warrant over one without. 800 brands hold a Royal Warrant, while a further £150m was added by Royal Patronage, £150m by Trade and £200m by informal endorsements.

Inevitably with the death of the Queen, some of the current 800 Royal Warrant holders, the Royal Warrant document will become void, but the company can continue to use the Royal Arms in connection with their business for up to two years, provided there is no significant change within the company concerned. "The Royal Household will review Warrant grants upon a change of reigning Sovereign." I predict that we will see a raft of new warrants, as well as some in continuance of shared heritage interests between the Queen and our new King.

The £1bn value add that the new Princess of Wales generates each year to the UK economy, will uplift many UK fashion brands, when she and her husband start to approve Royal Warrants. The Earthshot Prize underlines the continuance of the family's keen support for sustainability and environmental issues.It is my hope that the family continues to value craft, local economies and brands who make their products in the UK. As Kate Hills from Make It British highlighted for Fashion Roundtable last week: "when Queen Elizabeth ii came to the throne in 1952, manufacturing made up nearly 50% of the UK's output."

The list of endangered crafts on the Heritage Craft Association's red list is growing, with many of these based in rural economies. Their President is our new King. It is my hope that our government sees the value that crafts and these skills give to so many of us: not only the intangible pleasure of making and creating, but also the links they offer to communities to generate localised business opportunities. In 2013, crafts were dropped as part of the DCMS remit, with tech and digital added to the remit. I do not think we should exclude heritage crafts while we boost digital innovations. These should go hand in hand and are not mutually exclusive, as we build sustainable, long-term solutions. A foot in the past, an eye on the future. I feel this is what is required and I hope that whatever comes, this is core the vision of the UK and our relationship with identity, creativity and sustainability.

Photo: Metin Ozer