"Paris is getting real": Karen Binns analyses Paris Fashion Week SS20

Paris is getting real!

This season I’ve seen more super power selling collections than normal. Of course there are a few ‘unmentionables’, that’s normal. But the categories are all in favour of full on commercial coins .. ching ching ching! Maybe they are gearing up for Brexit too. Knowing now how London is getting their industry ready for the change, the Parisians are jumping on there motorbikes too to run the race of the global markets. There’s a fight to stay on it— at full throttle.

These are the most important categories…

THE SPORTIF PEDESTRIAN The girl who walks, takes public transport and has countless meetings during the day. She needs comfort, chicness, and a look that shows how in touch she is, and of course all with a youthful rhythm.

LACOSTE

Bringing you colour, proportions of… may I say, the (Phoebe Philo) cool chic. Don’t sleep on this brand ... it’s fire in the daytime ... with an additional retro cricket flex.

SACAI

An all-in-one look, combining the underneath blouse with the walking trench skirt .... GENIUS! Slip into it and go ... we all need one of these.

GIVENCHY

Not Playing .... each girl came down the catwalk READY. Sport luxe looks, trousers and flats with that extra French girl flex, but with a bit more attitude. Then as usual (and to a dope hip hop beat) opening themselves to a new customer.

ISSEY MIYAKI

The youth in all of us. The best windbreaker EVER. Every single look pulled you out of your seat and on the street or onto the dance floor. Colour and exhilaration.

JUNYA WATANABE

In your face looks power dressing in sportswear. Next level version for the real creatives that want to convey their strength with every step. Yes, the CEO will totally step into her meeting feeling the ONE who knows all of the answers!

SUPERLUXE REDCARPET

MARY KATRANTZOU

Opulence in Technicolor. This show was defiant of all show on location in Greece just at the end of the Paris Fashion Week. Mary came through like lightening... with an explosive collection of super red carpet looks.

VALENTINO

This collection continues the brand’s leadership in red carpet looks— they keep winning every season producing again the most beautiful and diverse luxe in a dress. This time around he starts from the colour white which took us into his jungle theme of colour and prints… you just can’t go wrong with Valentino.
It’s just slays ..... all the way .... into superstar moves.

LOEWE

Subtle, intelligent, and a more casual chicness for the art curator look. With an underlined sexiness that the designer Jonathan Anderson achieves every season. She can get into a luxe vehicle or take the bus whatever comes first and feel totally at ease in a flat shoe ... yes this is the modern update to red carpet—not bothered when you know you’re hot. And again proportions that suit more than a size zero which adds diversity to the brand.

BALENCIAGA

YESSSSS.... Giving us the most modern version possible of Alexis from the 80s TV Show Dallas meets Mildred Pierce... get your life !!! And get into those shoulder pads ... it’s time to set your true power dressing into motion in gorgeous technicolour. Just don’t look at the price get him to pull out the card on this one— it’s worth it, you won’t be missed with one of these.

CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS

A new jack on the scene but definitely one to keep a close eye on. Here this collection gives all the tools needed to become apart of the red carpet crew—vibrant colour in fresh and modern silhouettes as well as showing looks that suit more than just a size zero ... bravo.

ORGANIC NATIVITY

RICK OWENS

Sublime, Nefertiti. Queenculture— the goddess that is apart of us. Uplift your inner self into the atmosphere and let’s go. This brand is not for the faint hearted but more for the risk taker, the punk in us, the radical thinker open to a more organic point of view. Rick manages always to take us back to our nature as humans, to create silhouettes that remind us of past civilisations and ideals which can lead us into a more open state of mind ... and of course bringing us into the glamour of it all.

ACNE

A more DIY version using washed out and treated fabrics. Acne has a more casual approach to their collection. I like this season most because I feel they took it to a more wearable vice. It seams to be effortless in choices throughout the collection. Every piece can be worn with every other piece which makes for a more sellable solution. Natural nudes blended with muted colours— it’s mad cool.

NOIR KEI NINOMIYA

The elements and our current climate issue— an amazing reminder of our nature with headdresses like wild leaf arrangements to dressing ourselves into what and how we breath. An incredibly smart production of ideas from the grass under our feet to the clouds we look up to. Genius.

SCHIAPARELLI

Beautiful. Also showing the elements in vibrant prints— from cowhide to the ocean blue. Great looks and again adding colour to organic nude and earth tones.

MINIMAL CHIC

HAIDER ACKERMANN

There’s always a sexy toughness to the Haider girl. But this season he stripped back even more to the bare necessity of a look. Strong simple one plus one looks with a masculine feeling throughout.. and even adding a few male looks to solidify it all.

HERMES

Leather and cotton. Minimal glamour. Hermès of course is the top shelf of a French Fashion house. As a luggage brand, it always manages to enhance its name with perfect separates that can be worn forever. Extremely well made and of the best quality. True luxury all the way.