Fashion Director Karen Binns analyses the menswear Autumn/Winter 2020 collections from Paris and Milan
Milan has become much more exciting this season in menswear. They’ve embraced the importance of individuality in their collections— more colour, more new shapes, a man’s purse instead of his day bag. Also it addressed the dual gender that a number of men hold inside. This is a big step into inclusion of the man with dual gender identification.
Here are my top 6 collections that have shown the experimental and more flamboyant everyday working man with a job, a mortgage, and a possible family.
The Relaxed Luxe
MARNI - The Dance
Bringing together the new DIY luxe idea for the man who would rather wear a fresh new Look and, by no means, would purchase a second hand version. Vibrant colours and cute grunge ideas are taken to a more desirable separates template. Bigger proportions also invite a larger buying audience. A smart move.
A COLD WALL
As Samuel Ross’s first Milan catwalk debut, he really showed out by designing for the MAN WITH A REAL LIFE. He’s married, a father, he has responsibilities. Perhaps today’s slightly younger man who still rides his bike to work. But totally, in all ways, wants to be taken seriously. As well as the older man with the dope mix tape collection and more open to the youth cultures point of view. This is the man you settle down with that never misses a beat.
Military Chic
JIL SANDER
This collection has so many references to a soldier’s wardrobe. It definitely brings to our attention a softness of authority. Totalitarian trench coats, shirts with a very relaxed, bohemian flow. Interesting.
Casual luxe
FENDI
As we all know luxury is Fendi’s first name, but this season he’s going on younger and more Ubuntu than usual. Keeping with the more active man without having to label it sportswear. It’s more important than ever right now to embrace the HYPEBEAST audience— and this season they’ve nailed it with beautiful separates that give the man all of the hype he needs without appearing to be in a music video.
PRADA
I never really read press releases because I feel it clouds my vision. For me, Prada was amazing. It was colourful, bright, aspirational. The show itself allowed the viewer to see the collection as a voyeur from above. The collection’s presentation alone gave way to a modern working man—the new professional who no longer needs his suit to be grey wool or his shoes to be either a loafer or brogue. Menswear is more genderless than ever, and at the same time holding onto its masculinity. In a lighter and more colourful universe. Lime greens, rusts, pastels and the mix of primary colours with greys. Big boots instead of standard working lace ups.
PARIS is burning opulence. This season’s collections in Paris really excited me for so many reasons. First and most importantly, it went into a genderless mode without speaking the word. It showed how the beauty in menswear can be taken a bit further without losing its identity. More frivolous than normal ... and why not? Men these days—either straight, gay or bisexual—they all want FACE, to be noticed, to be admired, to be talked about, to be photographed ... as much as women, as their girlfriends, wives, lovers.
DIOR
JUDY , JUDY, JUDY… It felt like the Creative Director/designer Kim Jones said to himself—well if the womenswear doesn’t really want to dip into its 1950s couture archive then move over hun, I’LL TAKE IT! And he did, hard core. Yes, he give the MAN in the room the crystal incrusted jewelled swing MONSIEUR DIOR coat along with endless embellished pieces to collect like long embellished evening gloves. For men and with the song of pure love and homage to the late JUDY BLAME the show was spectacular and the collection was pure decadent cool. We might have lost Karl Lagerfeld, but now, we have Kim to take us where we need to go.
Architectural
CRAIG GREEN
Craig Green is the latest of the Brit injection into Paris. And how it came—excitement filled the room which was entirely white, industrial and large. Craig is definitely one of the geniuses of our decade, using the simple sustainable fabrics and turning it all in to wearable art. No words needed, the clothes speak for themselves, using colour and artistic structures to create a new phenomenon in menswear. Brand new long structured tees for men and medieval like three piece walking suits.
Rockstar
RICK OWENS
Rick never really changes his beat… as he owns it, relaying us to the one legged rocker of Ziggy Stardust. He delivers it in style and precision.. ROCK ON.
GMBH
I thought this collection was very impressive— the jacket and coat cut were new, fresh and interesting. Again genderless and cool as hell. It’s the type of cut that makes everyone look great. It’s like little helmets on the busy with a trans performance to give it lightness as well as heart.
Streamline
LOEWE
Jonathan is at it again— he has no boundaries in how he sees and relays menswear. With his “King and I” like approach he brings it always to a level of workmanship and brilliance. Check out his usage of the GOLD CHAIN effect— fabulous, just like the draping of his knitwear.
GIVENCHY
London is always calling. Clare Waight Keller, the British Creative Director/ Designer really expresses her love for the DANDY. Sexy and slim fitted suits, hot colour injections with a bit of the traveling loner involved— the English stamp is all over it. Mick Jagger needs to put his order in real quick ... just saying. I feel she’s found the Givenchy man this time around. He stands on his own with no need for the Givenchy women to hold his hand. A great collection.