OP-ED: London Fashion Week Men’s AW20 Showcased More Than Just Menswear, says Jordan Wake

By Jordan Wake, Junior Fashion Editor

As we enter a new decade in a time of political turbulence, climate crisis warnings and a severe lack of global leadership, menswear designers took to the London catwalks to present their AW20 collections. A handful of which had their own individual statements to make, and messages that touched upon topics further than the borders of the brands, and the designers themselves.

As conversations around genderless fashion continue to surround the industry, ART SCHOOL are consistently pioneering this in its purest form. As the black and white silhouettes of their collection slowly made their way down the catwalk, it was impossible not to feel the wave of emotion that followed with them. “ART SCHOOL was created to convey a message. To create a dialogue of our lives and those of our friends, our loved ones, who are never represented” read the press release of their AW20 collection, entitled ‘Fearless Love’. This is exactly the sentiment Tom Barratt and Eden Loweth—the creative minds behind the label—have embodied in everything they do with their brand. They unapologetically celebrate queer identities, particularly those who are trans and gender non-conforming, in the context of a world where they are under threat. Yet during those moments, at this single show, all under one roof, the individuals who are some of the most marginalised were not only being represented on an international stage, but truly being celebrated in one of the most beautiful ways imaginable. Being your most authentic self in a world that attempts to tell you otherwise—that is fearless love.

‘Motherhood’ was the key theme of Bethany Williams’s collection, skilfully translated through bold prints of a mother holding a child, to the bow she took at the end of the show, hand in hand with her own mother. Referencing not only her continued use of sustainable practices that she implements within her designs, but also The Magpie Project charity which she collaborated with on this AW20 collection— a charity who’s vital work supports women and children in temporary accommodation. Social responsibly is something that’s embedded within the Bethany Williams brand DNA, making her the deserving winner of both the Queen Elizabeth II Award and the British Emerging Talent Menswear Award at the British Fashion Awards last year. I often find Bethany’s shows spark a moment of reflection, a reflection on how much impact one designer can make within society. If one designer, a relatively new one on the circuit compared to others on both the womenswear and menswear schedules, can use their position and platform to be a real force for positive change, then surely we all can in our own unique way? Not just designers, but all of us across various industries. Fashion creates traction, traction gains influence, and influence creates the change which Bethany is evidently trailblazing into a new era.

The queer playwright Joe Orton— who lived in Islington during the 60s— played a key influence in Per Gotesson’s work. Collaborating with artist Patrick Waugh to create collaged denim jackets, gilets and patchwork tops, he used images from nature books and old fashion magazines. This was undoubtedly a nod towards the life of Orton who once covered his flat in pages he had torn out of library books. Community and belonging were both core values behind this collection, something all of us within the world of fashion can relate to on some level—not just in terms of the collaborators Gotesson had worked with on the actual clothing itself, but also the installation it was showcased within. Alongside designing, Gotesson also teaches at The London College of Fashion and had invited some of the students to make their own mark on the set. “The idea of community is manifested in the set” said Gotesson. From the show setting to the seams, he evoked a strong sense of unity in all aspects of his latest instalment. Something that is needed, now more than ever before.

Whilst the next generation of designers were emerging, it was time to say goodbye to another. At the beginning of July last year, the tragic news broke that Khalid Al Qasimi, founder and Creative Director of the QASIMI label, had passed away. Recognised for its collaborative design approach with architecture and Middle Eastern heritage, the QASIMI brand has quickly become one of the most highly anticipated shows on the menswear calendar. Just a couple of months after his death, it was announced that the late designer’s twin sister would take over the brand. However, the AW20 collection would indeed be the last one Khalid Al Qasimi had designed. A mixture of corduroy suits, tailored coats and the occasional patent garment were all featured in the late designer’s collection. Khalid did what any great designer does, propelling the brand forwards into its next stage whilst representing the signature elements which created the label’s legacy, that he himself had created. As the last model stepped off the catwalk, Hoor Al Qasimi stepped forward to take an emotional final bow on behalf of her brother. Signifying the end of one chapter, and the start of another.