Social Justice & Fashion: The Sri Lankan Mothers Weaving a New Narrative

By Izzy Bevir, AMMA Natural Textiles

Nestled in the hilly tea estates of Sri Lanka you’ll find a team of women who are committed to using sustainable textiles and design as a tool for women’s empowerment and ethical business. AMMA is one of many refreshing examples of a business wanting to create positive change to the way we shop. It was crafted out of the desperate need for flexible, fairly paid employment in the fashion industry, and the thought that business built on the values of community would be a good way to tackle systematic issues embedded in the industry. One employee states with pride: “It is safer working here than it is in another place with toxic people and a toxic environment. It is much better working here because everything is natural.”

The natural world is incredibly attractive for fashion designers, yet its immediate allure makes it all too simple for the fashion industry to overlook the harm it inflicts on nature and its people. Fast fashion catches consumers in a cycle of constant consumption and an insatiable need for more. AMMA’s funding partner, TRAID, has discovered that 23% of Londoner’s clothes are unworn. TRAID works to combat frightening statistics just like this by turning clothes waste into funds and resources which reduce the environmental and social impact of our clothes. Unfortunately, the obsessive demand for the latest trends has devastatingly resulted in low cost labour (80% of the global fashion industry workforce are women who often work long shifts with little pay) and strains on the environment.

In our consumerist world we are overwhelmed with options to satisfy us, such as fast food or fast fashion, and we mindlessly shop online without actively considering the impact of our purchasing decisions. This current system puts profit above people and distracts us from the injustices caused by buying into cheap trends. However, recent increased media coverage of inhumane treatment of garment workers, as well as increasing awareness of the current fashion structure and its damage to the environment, has resulted in fresh dialogue around alternative models. With the increased attention on climate change and the part human activity plays, it is time we pressed into habits of slow fashion and living with less. 

The term ‘sustainable fashion’ refers to textile production which meets today’s needs without compromising the needs of the future. It is rooted in understanding the structural oppression that permits human exploitation in the industry. Sustainable fashion observes the fashion industry through a social justice lens. It challenges society’s obsessive need for more, and encourages consumers to embrace quality over quantity and longevity over trends.

Sustainable brands bring originality into every stitch. They support local artisans and revitalise traditions, creating garments and accessories which are gentle to people and the earth. AMMA is deeply inspired by the natural environment and its vibrant colours with 100% of their pastel shades deriving from food waste and plants. They are a holistic business which seeks to provide relief for the most marginalised people living on Sri Lanka’s tea estates by employing local mothers to take the lead in making these zero-waste, natural garments and accessories. Justice is crafted directly into their product making. From dyeing to drying to the sensitive setup of the handloom, each process is done with a nurturing heart to ensure people and the environment are placed above profit. 

The recent outbreak of Covid-19 has provoked many to ponder their priorities. It is no surprise that the devastating impact of the pandemic has led many to ask the question: what world do we want to live in when this crisis is over? 

Now that consumers have begun shopping again, some have begun looking for purpose and sustainability. They want to see brands which value community and wellbeing, rather than those which embark on flash sales the moment their business is in flux. Brands that have authentic communication and a mission which values the human story are now the ones many consumers are looking to buy from. 

Despite the slow progress, ethical fashion is getting more and more recognition. Manufacturers, as well as social media influencers are beginning to take responsibility for the fabrics they wear and the brands they promote. Fashion has always been a means of expressing a person’s individuality so incorporating thoughtful and sustainable design can add a beautiful story to a person’s expression.

Being conscious about fashion is being part of a lifestyle which is intentionally trying to change the way we see the world. The journey requires collective effort which asks us all to consider not only the appearance of our clothes, but also the story behind our clothes.