Greenwashing: CMA to call-out brands
By Meg Pirie – Stylist and Slow-fashion Activist
Industry first: CMA to call-out brands for greenwashing
In a recent investigation, the Consumer Marketing Authority (CMA) found that 40% of green claims made online may actually be misleading for consumers. The ongoing investigation looked at how products and services with ‘eco-friendly’ claims are being marketed, in a bid to call-out brands for greenwashing. This found that many brands using terms such as ‘green’, ‘sustainable’, and ‘environmentally friendly’, were doing so frequently without substantiation.
So, what is greenwashing?
Senior Marketing Lecturer, Dr Sara Parry, weighs in,
“‘Greenwashing' is when companies use misleading messages in their marketing communications to persuade consumers that their products are eco-friendly. A number of well known high-street brands such as H&M and Zara have recently been criticised for making unsubstantiated or exaggerated environmental claims, often by simply using words such as 'recycled', 'eco friendly' or 'sustainable' on their websites, social media and packaging.”
Consumers deserve accountability
As an industry, fashion is particularly lucrative and it’s estimated that UK consumers spend around £54 billion on clothing and footwear annually, something which is anticipated to continue to grow. In the fashion sector, initiatives that aim to decrease environmental impacts while still increasing economic growth are prolific. This can be seen through the sourcing of organic and virgin fibres; as well as initiatives which recycle products at the end of their lifecycle. However, the sector is also known to be responsible for 10% of human-induced greenhouse gas emissions, as well as 20% of global wastewater. Therefore, given the nature of the environmental crisis, there has never been more pressure on brands to be accountable for their impact and for initiatives to be far clearer.
Consumers are also waking up to this, with far more onus being placed on sustainability. Cecilia Parker Aranha, the CMA’s Director of Consumer Protection, says,
“People are becoming increasingly aware of the negative impact that fashion can have on our planet. We know that many shoppers are actively looking for brands which are doing good things for the environment – and we want to make sure the claims they see are stacking up.”
So, why have the CMA stepped in?
Brands have utilised many ways in which to increase sales over the years, relying on frequently updated collections and focusing their marketing on the latest must-have trends. Sustainability has become one such trend and while many brands are doing the right thing by being transparent about how green a product actually is, some are capitalising on this term and touting green credentials dishonestly. In a preliminary study by the CMA, into misleading sustainability claims, regulators doubted whether the claims were correct in almost 50% of the cases. Further, two in three claims lacked sufficient information in order to determine their verifiability. Dr Parry adds,
“Being sustainable is on-trend and consumers are looking for sustainable products, so it's easy to see why fashion brands are tempted to use these tactics. It is therefore encouraging that the CMA is taking steps to reduce greenwashing and hold the fashion industry to account on these claims, which will hopefully lead to better transparency and authenticity.”
A welcomed move
This is a welcomed move, as fashion is just one sector requiring a massive overhaul. The investigation will continue to examine environmental claims across the fashion industry to include uses of recycled materials in new clothing; ‘sustainable’ ranges of clothing within stores; and any items which claim to be ‘better’ for the environment. This includes brands who hide vital information, to appear more eco-friendly. Under the guidelines, brands will also need to make clear what sustainability benefits the product offers and substantiate this.
Ultimately consumers need to be able to trust a brand’s sustainability claims. This requires brands to take a fresh look at what they’re telling customers, or risk action from the CMA and damage to their reputation in the long-run. CMA’s involvement hopes to highlight the companies which continue to do right by the environment and just as importantly, those which do not – ensuring consumers will be able to make more informed choices.
We’re now at such a pivotal point in history, where the climate crisis is such that every decision we make should be central to this. There is no place for false sustainability claims here.