Celebrating Seven Years of Fashion Roundtable: A Pillar for a Resilient Fashion Industry
Image: When Fashion Roundtable delivered our first Brexit x Fashion report at SHOWstudio Credit: Jodi Muter-Hamilton
By Michelle Kazi, Fashion Roundtable
Seven years ago on the 21st November, Tamara Cincik and a newly assembled team of fashion and policy experts, including Professor Swati Dhingra who was our Economics Expert and is now external member of the Bank of England's Monetary Policy Committee and Karen Binns as Fashion Director, embarked on a mission to reimagine the relationship between the UK fashion industry and policymakers. Launched with a dinner attended by Sarah Mower MBE and others, that vision became Fashion Roundtable, an organisation that has evolved into a vital force advocating for a sustainable, inclusive, and economically robust sector. Committed to 3 pillars: Education, Representation and Inclusion and Sustainability and Social Justice, as we celebrate its anniversary, the impact of this organisation resonates more profoundly than ever.
The UK fashion industry, with a turnover of an estimated £109.9 billion annually and employing over 700,000 people, has faced seismic shifts since Brexit. The challenges have been relentless—rising operational costs, diminished market access, and a talent drain threatening the sector’s global standing. Amidst these, Fashion Roundtable has stood firm, championing the industry’s voice and pushing for solutions to secure its future.
Policy Advocacy: Shaping the Narrative, Driving Change
Fashion Roundtable’s commitment to policy advocacy is unwavering. Serving as the secretariat for the All-Party Parliamentary Groups (APPGs) for Fashion and Textiles, and Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion, the organisation has consistently brought the industry’s challenges to Westminster. These platforms have enabled Fashion Roundtable to not only raise the alarm on critical issues but also present actionable recommendations.
The latest report, “Fashion’s Future: How Brexit Has Reshaped the Fashion Industry”, published just two days before this anniversary, exemplifies the organisation’s proactive approach. It provides an unflinching analysis of the deep scars Brexit has left on the industry, including the 60% decline in clothing and footwear exports to the EU since 2019. SMEs, which account for 90% of the sector, have been hit hardest. Prohibitive customs procedures, lengthy delays, and rising operational costs have created barriers that are now existential for many businesses.
The report also highlights the critical role of talent mobility, which has been significantly hampered by Brexit. Visa restrictions mean UK creatives can no longer collaborate seamlessly across Europe, leading to a talent drain that is eroding the sector's competitive edge. In response, Fashion Roundtable proposes pragmatic solutions: renegotiating trade agreements, introducing bilateral visa schemes for creatives, and reinstating VAT-free shopping for international tourists to stimulate economic activity.
Groundbreaking Research: A Legacy of Insightful Reports
Fashion Roundtable has consistently delivered reports that go beyond data to tell the story of an industry that drives culture, innovation, and economic growth. The “Fashion & Economic Value Report 2024” detailed the sector’s contribution in billions to the UK economy and its pivotal role in regional job creation. By focusing on areas like Yorkshire and the Humber, where manufacturing and textiles form the backbone of local economies, the report underscored the sector’s importance beyond London’s fashion capitals.
The “Creative Wellbeing Economy Report 2023” shifted the narrative to how fashion contributes to societal wellbeing, promoting a vision where creativity drives not just economic but also social progress. These publications have become essential tools for policymakers and industry leaders alike, guiding decision-making in uncertain times.
Sustainability: Leading the Charge for a Greener Future
At the core of Fashion Roundtable’s mission is sustainability. The Great British Wool Revival in partnership with YNAP and the King's Foundation is a shining example of this commitment. This initiative tackles the underutilisation of one of the UK’s most iconic natural resources—wool. Despite its renewable, biodegradable properties, British wool has struggled to compete with cheaper synthetic alternatives.
The Revival connects farmers, designers, and manufacturers to create local supply chains that are not only more sustainable but also more resilient. Wool from breeds like the Romney, Herdwick, and Scottish Blackface is being championed as a high-quality, versatile material for both fashion and interiors. By focusing on domestic production, the initiative reduces carbon footprints, preserves traditional skills, and reinvigorates regional economies.
In tandem with this, Fashion Roundtable has pushed for greater government support for regenerative farming practices, subsidies for local manufacturers, and consumer education to highlight the environmental and economic benefits of British wool. It’s a project that epitomises Fashion Roundtable’s ability to merge sustainability with economic growth.
Brexit’s Legacy: Navigating the Post-EU Landscape
Brexit has left no part of the UK fashion industry untouched. Fashion Roundtable’s 2021 report on Brexit provided a sobering account of the early impacts, but today, the scale of the challenge is even clearer. Customs processes have become a minefield for SMEs, with increased paperwork, tariffs, and delays stifling their ability to trade with the EU—once the sector’s largest export market.
One of the most harrowing statistics in the latest report is the drop in exports to the EU, from £7.4 billion in 2019 to £2.7 billion in 2023. For small brands, the cost of compliance often outweighs the potential profits of EU trade. Many are left with a stark choice: scale back operations or relocate to the EU. Both options mean a loss of jobs, talent, and investment for the UK.
The disruption extends to talent mobility. Before Brexit, UK designers and models could easily work across the continent. Today, visa restrictions limit their time in the EU, complicating contracts and increasing costs. For young creatives, the loss of Erasmus internships has closed vital pathways to experience and opportunity, weakening the next generation of British talent.
Fashion Roundtable’s recommendations in “Fashion’s Future” are a lifeline. Simplifying customs processes, harmonising regulations, and investing in export hubs within the EU could ease the burden on SMEs. Restoring visa-free work for creatives and reinstating schemes like Erasmus would also help restore the UK’s competitive edge.
Collaboration and Critique: A Constructive Approach to Governance
Fashion Roundtable’s relationship with the government has been both collaborative and critical. Under the current Labour government, led by Keir Starmer, there is a renewed focus on creative industries as drivers of national growth. However, Fashion Roundtable has not hesitated to point out gaps in policy, especially in addressing the fallout from Brexit.
Their proposals, from supporting domestic manufacturing to negotiating frictionless trade agreements, are as pragmatic as they are visionary. Fashion Roundtable has also been vocal about the need for a cohesive strategy that prioritises fashion as a cultural and economic asset.
A Call to Arms: The Importance of Fashion Roundtable’s Work
Fashion Roundtable’s work over the past seven years has been nothing short of transformative. It has given the UK fashion industry a voice at the policymaking table, ensuring its concerns are not just heard but acted upon.
In a post-Brexit world, where the challenges are immense and the stakes are high, Fashion Roundtable’s efforts are critical. This is an organisation that doesn’t just identify problems—it proposes solutions and drives change. Its vision of a sustainable, inclusive, and globally competitive UK fashion industry isn’t just aspirational; it is essential for the future of this £110 billion sector.
As we celebrate this milestone and our more recent partnership with Bath Spa University to deliver on the National Centre for Fashion and Sustainability, developing a new approach to fashion education and business pathways.