Reflections on Fashion Policy and Collective Action
Image: Michelle Kazi delivering her UK Policy Around Fashion seminar to Nike RM72 Fashion Programme student Credit: Fashion Roundtable
Last week, I had the privilege of delivering a lecture to a group of bright, emerging designers at the Nike RM72 Fashion Programme. Other speakers included Sarah Mower MBE, Vikram Menon, who acts as financial advisor to many new designers showing at London Fashion Week and Lulu Kennedy from Fashion East. The designers were selected by Stavros Karelis, Founder of iconic fashion concept store Machine A, which means the bar was set high, speaking to the best upcoming design talent in the UK.
The seminar, titled UK Policy Around Fashion, wasn’t just an exploration of policy; it was a dialogue about the intersection of creativity, commerce, and activism. The students were eager to learn, and their questions reflected a hunger for clarity in an industry that’s often opaque.
Preparing for this lecture was no small feat. The PowerPoint deck I presented was the culmination of weeks of research, collaboration, and distillation of complex policy challenges into actionable insights. It wasn’t just about explaining laws or frameworks; it was about bridging the gap between policy and practice, showing how decisions made in Parliament ripple through supply chains, design studios, and retail floors. But beyond the policies, this lecture—and this article—is a call to action. It’s a reminder of the power of collective activism in shaping an industry that reflects our values.
Setting the Stage: Why Policy Matters in Fashion
The UK fashion industry is a cultural and economic powerhouse, contributing £109.9 billion annually and supporting over 714,000 jobs. It’s an ecosystem of creativity, craftsmanship, and commerce, but it’s also vulnerable. Since Brexit, we’ve faced trade barriers, talent shortages, and rising operational costs, particularly for the small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) that form 90% of the sector.
These challenges formed the backdrop of my lecture. I wanted the students to understand that policy isn’t a distant or abstract concept—it’s the scaffolding on which the industry is built. From sustainability goals to labour rights, policy decisions shape everything, right down to the fabrics on their cutting tables. And while it’s tempting to see these challenges as insurmountable, they’re also opportunities for transformation.
Lessons from the Deck
The presentation I delivered was structured around four key policy areas: sustainability, trade, workforce development, and innovation. Each of these areas is a nexus of challenges and opportunities, and each requires both individual and collective action to navigate.
Sustainability: Responsibility and Opportunity
We started with sustainability—a pressing issue that is reshaping every industry. The UK’s Environment Act and the EU’s Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) regulations are pushing the fashion sector towards more sustainable practices. But these policies come with hurdles, especially for SMEs, which often lack the resources to adapt quickly.
I highlighted the potential in using deadstock fabrics and embracing circular economy models. Initiatives like Textiles 2030 and grants from Innovate UK provide a roadmap for designers who want to lead with purpose. One student asked if sustainability was a “luxury” for larger brands. My answer was simple: sustainability isn’t optional; it’s essential. And for smaller brands, it’s a chance to innovate and stand out.
Trade: Navigating the New Landscape
Brexit has reshaped our trading relationships, with clothing exports to the EU dropping by 60% since 2019. For designers, this means navigating a maze of customs rules and tariffs, which can feel overwhelming. I shared strategies like focusing on local supply chains and leveraging UK Trade Access Programmes to mitigate these challenges.
Trade policies are complex, but the takeaway was clear: adaptability is key. Designers need to stay informed and proactive, finding ways to thrive in a post-Brexit world. As I told the students, challenges like these often spark the kind of innovation that defines industries.
Workforce: The Talent Conundrum
The third area was workforce development. The loss of EU talent and restrictive visa rules have created a significant skills gap in the UK. Programmes like T Levels in fashion and textiles are a step in the right direction, but the pipeline from education to industry remains fractured.
For the students, this was personal. They are the future workforce, but they’re entering an industry that hasn’t fully recovered from Brexit’s disruptions. I emphasised the importance of collaboration—between universities, designers, and policymakers—to rebuild a strong talent pipeline.
Innovation: Designing the Future
Finally, we looked at innovation. The fashion industry is ripe for transformation, with emerging technologies like AI and advanced materials opening up new possibilities. But innovation requires investment, and many SMEs struggle to access the necessary funding.
I encouraged the students to think beyond traditional models. From AI-assisted pattern-making to circular production systems, the future of fashion is one where creativity meets technology. And as innovators, they have the chance to shape that future.
Beyond Policy: The Power of Collective Activism
While policies provide the framework, it’s activism that drives real change. This was a theme I returned to throughout the lecture. Collective action—whether it’s lobbying for better trade agreements or advocating for ethical labour practices—has always been a force for progress in fashion.
I spoke about the work of All-Party Parliamentary Groups (APPGs) like those for Textiles and Fashion and Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion. These groups play a crucial role in influencing policy, but they need industry voices to guide their priorities. As designers, students have a unique perspective to contribute, and their collective voice can amplify the changes we need.
This is why I believe in the power of platforms like Fashion Roundtable. By bringing together designers, policymakers, and activists, we create a space for dialogue and action. It’s a reminder that while the challenges we face are systemic, the solutions are collective.
Reflections and Looking Ahead
Delivering this lecture was a reminder of the resilience and creativity that define the fashion industry. The students’ questions were sharp, their ideas inspiring, and their optimism contagious. They reminded me that while the road ahead is challenging, it’s also full of possibility.
As I write this, I’m struck by how much we have to gain from collective activism. The challenges facing the UK fashion industry—trade barriers, talent shortages, sustainability—aren’t insurmountable. But they require all of us to play a part, whether it’s lobbying for better policies, mentoring the next generation, or simply making more thoughtful choices as designers and consumers.
This isn’t just about policy or activism; it’s about the kind of industry we want to build. An industry that values creativity and ethics as much as commerce. An industry that leads with purpose. And most importantly, an industry that thrives because we chose to act together.
So, as we move forward, let’s remember this: change doesn’t happen in isolation. It happens when we come together—designers, policymakers, educators, and consumers—to create the future we want to see.