OP-ED: Eden Loweth on why we must support our young talent now, before it’s too late
By Eden Loweth, Creative Director of ART SCHOOL and Fashion Roundtable Ambassador
Over the past 12 months, the fashion industry has been devastated by the combination of the Covid-19 pandemic and the ongoing repercussions of Brexit. London has always been a torchbearer and champion of the brightest young talent, acting as a springboard for a huge portion of the world’s most talented designers to grow and become international names. But now as we look to the future and return to a new normal, we must safeguard and support our young talent, before it’s too late.
I have been overwhelmingly lucky in my career to have so much support from so many. The non-for-profit platform for young talent, Fashion East was the first to believe in me. They provide support in the form of bursaries, business and sales mentorship and a show, on schedule at London Fashion Week. Lulu Kennedy, Fashion East’s founder and all round fairy godmother to young talent has unwaveringly supported and guided myself, and so many others who are now in the highest positions within the industry — from Kim Jones and J.W.Anderson to Roksanda Illincic and Grace Wales Bonner. Lulu and her team’s work is often done on a shoestring, with sheer passion and determination resulting in the incredible track record for success Fashion East has achieved. London and its young talent is lucky to have such a life changing platform. Now more than ever, it’s platforms like this that keep the fire of everything that’s good about our city burning.
Similarly, the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN support, spearheaded by Sarah Mower has also provided invaluable financial, physical and business support to take London’s young talents to the next stage of their businesses. Sarah is one of the strongest women I have ever met, her fierce support for people like me deserves not just recognition but deep gratitude that we have her to fight our corner.
Both of these incredible women have devoted so much of their lives to supporting and nurturing the UK’s finest talent. But in times like this our Government, and the big business community must do more, in the name of both of these women and for the young people of our industry.
The UK Government has completely and utterly failed our industry and its young talent. In the midst of a global pandemic, and the hardest trading environment in living memory we have been left out in the cold. It’s a disgrace that the response to this being put to our government by Tamara Cincik and the incredible team at Fashion Roundtable is that we should use our “star power” to survive this crisis – this is mind blowing to me. We must unite in this fight to protect our young talent and prevent further decimation of our industry.
In the latest budget from Chancellor Rishi Sunak the fashion industry was overlooked; it seams one of the largest economies in the UK is not a priority. Clothing is big business for the UK. The UK’s fashion industry is worth £26 billion and 800,000 jobs to the economy, making it the UK’s largest creative industry. Textiles and fashion exports alone are estimated to be worth over £6.5 billion (UKFT Manifesto, UKFT, 2012) and the majority of British fashion businesses export to other countries (The Value of Fashion, BFC, 2012). The UK is also the world leader in fashion education, with six of the world’s 20 leading fashion universities. Like much of the Higher Education sector, the student body is highly international, with an estimated 1,500 international students enrolling in British fashion courses every year. We are a leading light for the world’s brightest young talent. It is truly astonishing that the government is overlooking us. The impact of the past 12 months will be felt for decades, in the most part due to the complete lack of response from the people who’s job it is to protect us. The youngest people – students, designers and small business owners will be plunged into poverty in future by the decisions (or lack of) made today by the people in power.
Collectively, now is the time to take action. Join the powerful women I’ve spoken about here and the incredible work of the Fashion Roundtable in fighting back and protecting our brightest young people— before irreversible damage destroys what makes London a global force of nature in our industry.
We all have our role to play. It isn’t a choice. It’s a responsibility.