Has the Pandemic Helped or Hindered Sustainability Efforts in the Fashion Industry?
The COVID-19 pandemic has changed the way we live and shop, possibly forever. Many have hailed this ‘new normal’ as a transformative force for good which could awaken an outdated and slow-moving fashion industry to its environmental responsibilities. However, despite reports of increased intention amongst consumers to adopt a more considered approach to consumption, fast fashion retailers continue to thrive, and textile waste continues to pile up.
Studies indicate a growing consumer interest in sustainability. Google reports that in the 90 days leading up to 22nd April, internet searches for ‘How to live a sustainable lifestyle’ increased by 4,500%. Similarly, a McKinsey & Co study found that two thirds of consumers report sustainability as becoming even more important to them following COVID-19. Gen Z have always been dedicated to addressing the climate emergency, and this latest crisis has increased the urgency of those ambitions. Shifting consumer perception is evidenced in a growing market for second-hand clothing. Circular businesses models such as re-sale and rental - once considered niche - are creeping into the mainstream. Depop have seen triple digit growth across their platform since April and Thrift+ (a service which allows customers to donate unwanted clothing via courier) have experienced a surge in new users.
Faced with great change and uncertainty, consumers have become more open to new and alternative shopping experiences. Time spent at home has also provided consumers with the opportunity to research and discover new brands. This has nurtured a rise in small, UK-based designers offering bespoke craftmanship, often selling via social media. Both Olivia Rose The Label and Rooper built an engaged customer base via Instagram and have subsequently been snapped up by Selfridges for their ‘Project Earth’ sustainable online edit. Such brands are often created using deadstock fabrics, on a made-to-order basis, which both alleviates the strain on virgin natural resources used for textile manufacturing, as well as eliminating the waste created through over-production. Annie, who runs the small brand Pixie and Bobs, says “social media increased awareness around sustainability and ethical issues in the fashion industry, and it has also opened the door for people like myself and lots of other really cool small brands that offer a more personal touch”.
However, these changes may not be enough to turn the tide on fast fashion. Despite struggles across the retail sector, fast fashion brands are still coming out on top. Manchester-based online retailer Boohoo reported a sales increase of 45% to £368m in the quarter to May. Primark have seen similar success, reporting higher-than-expected sales figures after post-lockdown re-opening of stores, as well as an increase in the number of items purchased per transaction.
Environmental charity WRAP estimates that more than half of fast fashion items produced are disposed of in under a year. During lockdown, Brits undertook a collective ‘wardrobe clear out’, generating an estimated 67 million tonnes of waste clothing. With less than 1% of all materials in clothing currently being recycled and turned into new garments, this is a considerable issue and one set to grow - with a 63% predicted increase in global consumption of clothing by 2030.
To add to this, retailers are said to be sitting on mountains of unsold summer stock, which highlights the problem of placing orders blindly, months in advance. Heavy discounting may not be enough to shift this and in the past brands such as Burberry have admitted to burning stock, rather than running promotions, in order to maintain its premium image.
The COVID-19 crisis has most definitely highlighted the vulnerability of the fashion industry in its current form, with existing systems requiring a re-think in order to best serve a post-pandemic world. Based on evolving consumer habits, those retailers who prioritise environmental issues and incorporate circularity within their business model appear best positioned to achieve future success. With consumers scrutinising purchases more than ever before, and investing in brands which act in the interests of their values, it’s vital that companies ditch greenwashing tactics in favour of meaningful change on sustainability issues.