Luxury fashion label Gucci has declared the traditional fashion week calendar obsolete as it announced new plans to show “seasonless” collections twice a year. On the surface the move is a major victory for sustainable fashion campaigners. But beneath the surface, the announcement raises significant questions about how we can really build a “leaner, less wasteful fashion industry”, and what systems need to be in place to make that happen.

Vogue Italia’s one-off illustrated covers are a step in the right direction, but it’s not enough to bring about the systemic change the fashion industry needs to address global sustainability concerns.