THE POWER OF INFLUENCE: Q&A with Anne-Marie Curtis

Anne-Marie Curtis is the former Editor in Chief of ELLE UK, and is a leading voice in luxury fashion's push towards sustainability. Under her direction, The September Issue 2018 of ELLE UK was a trailblazer placing sustainable fashion as the theme for the entire issue: from shoot production, to clothes, even down to paper the magazine it was printed on. Ahead of Anne-Marie Curtis speaking at Fashion Roundtable’s The Power of Influence event, we take the opportunity to ask her a few questions about luxury fashion and the issue of sustainability. From the evolving role of fashion magazines to the relationship between fast and luxury fashion, she raises many important points about where the sustainability conversation is heading next.

In your view, what is the role of fashion magazines in shaping and pushing forward the sustainability agenda? Can they be educational or are they a fantastical vision of a sustainable future?

I think fashion magazines have a big role to play in shaping and pushing forward the agenda. In terms of audience and reach, they still hold huge influence and have a lot of sway both in terms of educating their readers and setting agendas.

It’s complex though, as a lot of the changes required need to also come from the brands. Magazines’ main revenue stream is advertising from luxury brands, and until the brands also implement meaningful changes then there is only so much magazines can do. Editors and anyone with a platform should also therefore be talking to the brands, as well as consumers, to bring about change— whether that’s looking at the carbon footprint of putting on a cruise show on the other side of the world, or looking at innovation and also profit expectations more realistically. It’s about having a two-way dialogue. Asking how we as an industry can change, and working together to achieve that.

With ELLE UK’s September 2018 issue, you became the first Editor-in-Chief to devote an issue to the topic of sustainability, what was the inspiration behind this?

I had wanted to do a Sustainability themed issue for ELLE and was planning on running it as our June issue. Then an introduction via Emelie Akerbrandt—a friend and former fashion PR and now a sustainability consultant who ended up consulting on the issue— to Kering’s Chief Sustainability Officer, Marie-Claire Daveu, and a subsequent meeting changed everything.

It really was a light bulb moment for me… a realisation of what a hugely important issue it was and that as EIC of ELLE I had a platform that could help amplify the message— thus, the move to the September issue. It felt a little scary to be honest. September is always the biggest commercial and fashion issue in the magazine calendar, and I knew it would have been the first luxury glossy to dedicate the issue to subject of Sustainability, but I just felt I had to be brave and bold, and just do it. 

In terms of sustainability, what are your thoughts on the relationship between luxury fashion and fast fashion? Do you think luxury fashion must lead the way with new sustainable fabrics and eco-technology?

I think it’s about luxury fashion leading the way, yes. From setting targets to using their resources to develop and innovate new fabrics, to supporting and learning from the new generation of sustainability-minded designers many of whom are leading the way in this area. Fast fashion needs to change too. It’s great, for example, that Zara have announced by 2025 all clothing will be made from 100% sustainable fabrics— but essentially the fast fashion model needs to evolve for things to really have an impact. The concept of ‘throw-away trend pieces’ being bought and worn a handful of times before being discarded needs to change.

How can fashion magazines navigate their role in selling clothes with this new ethical obligation to curb over-consumption? Is the idea of hypocrisy something that many are becoming weary of?

I think everyone has a role to play in changing how we shop. Magazines, influencers, brands and consumers. Rental/vintage/resale, etc are all brilliant ways to do this and alongside the concept of ‘buy less, buy better’ they need to become the norm rather than a trend. I thought the Vogue Italia issue was great and very inspiring, but moving forward sustainability needs to be woven throughout content in every issue of magazines and brands platforms to really have an impact on how people dress and consume fashion.

Do you think responsibility lies with the fashion industry itself to become eco-friendlier or do you think politicians must play a part in introducing stricter guidelines?

Ultimately, unless politicians and world leaders make the necessary changes and introduce much stricter targets and legislation then the devastation, we are now witnessing (for example with the Australian bush fires) will become far more prevalent. Change needs to happen everywhere and on every level— from  government to corporations to individuals— in order to really affect positive change before it’s too late.

As we begin the new decade, do you feel a sense of optimism about the fashion industry’s ability to reduce its environmental impact?

I’m a naturally optimistic person and the sustainability issue is definitely far more front and centre on the fashion agenda. But now it’s about actions not just conversations and we all need to be a part of that.

 Edited by Lottie Jackson