Socially Distant, Digital and Inclusive: London Fashion Week's New Normal

By Didem Aksakal

Undoubtedly, the New Normal has challenged the fashion industry across the globe, with many speaking of the Covid-19 pandemic as a “reset” moment for brands and designers. Over the past few days, London Fashion Week illustrated this better than anything else. While we were used to eagerly following editors and influencers on Instagram as they rushed from one show to another, it was eerily quiet in the realms of social media this season.

Socially distant, digital and inclusive. Until now, sitting in the front row as the world’s most talented designers present their next collections seemed like a distant dream to most of us. And while in June, the British Fashion Council (BFC) promised to turn the most important event of the year into a “Netflix channel for fashion”, the fashion community seemed rather discouraged about the turn of events. Adhering to social distancing guidelines, London Fashion Week decided to follow a rather experimental approach by splitting their schedule into three, with brands debuting their collections either digitally or physically, or both. In practical terms, this meant that fashion lovers around the world were able to watch next season’s collections online with LFW’s On Schedule platform.

Burberry, arguably the most anticipated show of the week, took its catwalk to the British countryside, staging an art-meets-fashion experience available on stream and with no physical audience. Molly Goddard, who initially planned a neutral colour palette for her collection, surprised with a bold mix of colours, tulle and graphic prints with the intention of bringing joy into the fashion world after several depressing months. In conclusion, this year’s catwalks felt a lot more personal, as designers manifested their own feelings and experiences of lockdown through their artistic creations.

And while designers have made their best efforts to express their vision to the fashion world, catwalks seemed to be rather secondary. The consequences of the pandemic have left the fashion industry wounded, leaving plenty of space for meaningful discussions about inclusivity and sustainability. During the “On The Runway” event, a recent discussion panel hosted by The New York Times, Virgil Abloh (founder of Off-White) said that he wanted to make fashion meaningful amidst the ongoing conversations. This proves to be a common sentiment across the industry, as Paria Farzaneh mirrored the troubles in America in her outstanding show that included military clothing and pyrotechnics in a war-like setting. “We can plant the seed for a new perspective”, said Farzaneh as she wanted to draw attention to the political unrest in the United States.  

Ultimately, this year’s London Fashion Week has been an entirely different experience with its ups and downs. It left questions marks when it comes to the very future of the industry. But while it is clear that uncertainty will continue until further notice, fashion is now becoming a refuge for many. Equally, it’s perpetually evolving into a platform for discussions on inclusivity and sustainability, sparking the need to disrupt the industry. And finally, for fashion lovers like myself, this year made me feel closer to the front row than ever before.