Karen's Notebook: Our Fashion Director Talks London Fashion Week
By Karen Binns
The Fear In Fashion
It’s been emotional this season. The Fear of Covid! The Fear of being called out! The Fear of the Inclusivity Box! The Fear of not being sustainable! The Fear of the BLM movement! In the history of fashion, I’ve never seen so many boxes ticked. It’s become a bit emotional. Everything we say and show and produce… if you don’t tick the boxes, you are busted, pulled up, caught out and sit in fear of your career. Sorry, but no longer can anyone get away with not being politically correct. But, there is one thing that has come out of all of this fear… it’s beauty, honesty, authenticity, the importance of nature and togetherness.
London Fashion Week was quite a difficult one to grasp. But, regardless of the Covid parameters, it came through like wild flowers. Designers either gave you The Great Outdoors. Or the importance of heritage and the home.
Here are a few of my favourite collections at London Fashion Week:
Duro Olowu
Heritage, all day. African / British designer that never forgets we he’s from, and delivers every season, the chicest of his aesthetics.
Emilia Wickstead
Absolutely beautiful. Tapestry and total minimalism all together. Super impressed with this season.
Preen
Again, heritage captured in floral prints, combined with the most modern draping possible. Love it! The whole collection was made with deadstock fabrics— due to the closure of textiles mill during lockdown. They used fabrics leftover from past seasons, things they had tried but never got around to using, as well as deadstock from a UK gaberdine factory. They also dyed their materials with natural dyes from apples, gorse and beetroot— this collection highlights the way creative businesses can be agile in difficult times.
Bethany Williams
The sustainability queen of gender free men’s and womenswear. Here she showed the importance of the family that dresses together, ageless and sustainable. And again, this season, more than ever before, casting that is diverse and inclusive.
Erdem
The designer takes us to the countryside, back to nature with a beautiful collection modern florals. His girl is definitely the girl next door…
Halpern
We won’t be going anywhere soon. So Halpern has decided… well, dress up at home. He is giving us dreams of opulence. Get your life, even in your own back yard or living room.